LEJOG A CHRONICLE OF FOOD STOPS FROM END TO END

Wednesday 21 June 2006

On the train, leaving Reading, 10.32, on time.

First revelation is how quietly it moves, and as I am in the first coach next to the bike storage, it is a Standard Class Quiet Carriage, no one speaking, all absorbed in papers or computers.

I have very mixed feelings. Half of me is excited, not having slept well in anticipation, and looking forward to the adventure. The other half is anxious, will my body be up to the task, and more importantly, is my mind able to enjoy the three weeks solitude? I know I will miss Audrey, now only the first digital photo on my otherwise blank photo memory card. Looking out on the scene, Hungerford, where I see sections of the Kennet and Avon Canal that I have ridden both ways previously, (Sharon and Nigel). Catch a glimpse of the white horse cut into the hillside (a tour with Jack). Memories of Sharon as I eat my first two Florentines and a banana for 12 o'clock snack just before Exeter. Then good scenes of the sea estuary and red cliffs up to Dawlish. Mostly grey cloud, a strong wind and quite cool, even here in the carriage.

Over the huge rail bridge at Plymouth, with the clouds getting blacker, and then into Cornwall, a twisting rail track round the ominous hills and valleys. A stop at Bodmin station with almost two hours train journey left, and maybe I will be back here in 3 days time on my bike?

A long walk down several coaches to buy coffee and a bacon Bap £4.30, then read more cycling 'Fellowship News', in between scenery viewing, with stops at Redruth and Cambourne. On to St Erth, for St Ives, full of super memories, but getting a miss from me on this trip. I see signs for NCT which remind me of Gina, but these are for house sales.

Penzance on time, out by 3.15 and change sandals for shoes sitting on the low wall in the car park, overlooking the harbour, the place of many pasty and ice cream memories. Buy new batteries £4.85 for my Psion palmtop in Boots and off up the steep high street in fine spirits.

Strong head winds, steep hills and descents for 11 miles in to Lands End by 4.20, sign the End to End Book and have my picture taken with the lighthouse in the dull grey background.

At LANDS END Computer ZERO Odo Reading 7438.33

Off easily, with the wind now, to St Just Youth Hostel, (£12) and a very cheerful welcome. A full menue choice and £9 for a three course evening meal and big breakfast. I'm on my way.

DAY ONE Thursday 22June 2006

Wake 7.30am after a fantastic nights sleep since 9pm, in a room alone. Open the curtains to find 5 rabbits gamboling on the lawn, and behind them a gorgeous view of the valley with the sea beyond, but still grey cloud.

Good breakfast, Meuslie, scrambled eggs on toast, light and tastey, coffee and toast galore, with great marmalade. Youngsters in the special school party in good spirits, looking forward to the day, as I am.

Off 8.40, up on to the tops then a swoop down into Penzance again with so many memories crowding one another. A brief ride on to the pier, scene of Trixolar berth around 22 years ago, with visits by Mum and Dad, and their friends, then out to Marazian., with a stop to photo St Micheals Mount, with more thoughts of visits with our young children, well before that.

Off through the lanes towards Redruth with a great view at the top, back to St Ives and the island with Carbis Bay tucked out of sight. The sun is peeking through now, and off comes the windproof faded yellow jacket.

Entering Redruth I ask a local chap on an old bike, "Which way to Scorrier ?". "I'm an old timer here, just follow me". I know that what I lost in speed, I gained in short cuts, up and down curbs, across roads through local housing, and on tracks. In bits of conversation, it emerged that he too was a David, 70 on the 12 of this month, an ex farmer born and bred here, and with every other car and van hooting and waving to him. A local character, looked way over 70, and I should have taken his photo as we parted but only thought of it after.

During the morning my mind checking on the computer works out that after 20 miles, I have covered a fiftieth of my journey, and then very soon after, 25 miles works out at a fortieth. Later in the afternoon with 50 miles showing, a twentieth covered already, Wow I'm flying!

12.00 Midday.

Stop in a Little Chef just off the A30, tuna melt panini and a glass of milk, just midday and almost done my day's mileage, so it looks like passing Peranporth, only 8 miles away. The bike is rolling well, the bar bag giving a steady feel to the steering, not much traffic and the wind on the rear quarter. I'm feeling good. Away at 12.35, lighter by £5.50.

A 6 mile dash along the very familiar A30, with the several hoards of gently waving windmills confirming that the wind is on my side or slightly behind. Traffic generally is not a problem as there is a 3 ft space inside the white line for me to use, quite a smooth surface and not scattered with gravel and rubbish as is often the case. None the less I am very relieved to leave the noise and fumes just after Zelah to get back on the lanes, and buy a soda (85p) at St Newlyn East shop to help me over the hills. Passing the NT house at Trerice I must have missed a turning and emerged onto the main Newquay road too far along, with no corresponding lane on the opposite side. Asking the owner of 'the pine factory' for directions, we found out that he came from Quorn in Leicester, where I had lived in Quorn Hall during my three years at Loughborough College, '54 to '57, and that we had both canoed the River Soar in flood under the bridge with the dangerous whirlpools and breakers. A good 15 minute chat! More lovely undulating lanes before joining "The Atlantic Highway', a very high flown name for the A29 which soon degenerated into a narrow two lane main road, with some real narrow sections, but with spectacular views over Padstow Estuary. I had a quick banana stop to take it all in, with bright blue skies with a few clouds. A long fast swoop down again and over the high River Cam bridge with a great view in to Wadebridge. I would have loved to take a pic, but the traffic was too much to contemplate stopping or crossing the road.

Happy to get onto lanes again at Kew, I was soon labouring hard up very steep hills, the most difficult yet, which seemed to go on and on. Perhaps this is the beginning of my labours after my early flush of energy. On to the B road paralelling the coast with the sea well in view, and a stop in the odd sounding Delabole, where I needed to change maps opposite the Chisel and Bettle Pub.

I unpacked the next sheet but eventually realised that I only needed to turn over from page 3 to 4. Only then I realised that I was literally 2 miles from where I had intended to stay with friends on my SECOND night. I have done two days ride on my first day, and I still have energy! A quick look in the Psion and a call on my Nokia, (good old Trevor) confirms that Lesley is happy for me to stay a day early. A steep drop in to Treknow and I am soon drinking a cup of tea and exchanging news.

Day One Trip 73.07 miles from St Just. Odo 7516.6. Av 11.4.

An evening half mile walk to a local pub for a great Liver and Onion with lots of fresh veg and gravvy. Lesley had to go out to a prebooked meeting and was very apologetic, but Keith and I never stopped talking. She joined us later back home, we talked on till 11.30 before I showered and crawled into my virginal white fluffy bed to sleep like a log. A call from the local phone box outside the pub had been used to report to Audrey during our meal as the mobile showed, 'no network coverage'. She was at Sharons with Jenny too, all helping to ice the christening cake, so I had a good chat with all of them. Sharon and Nigel, having brought home big winnings from her day at Ascot, she was highly chuffed.

DAY TWO Thursday 23 June,

Wake 7.30, pack and view Keith's three shed workshops, woodturning, carving and the general one where I stored my bike. Feed the goldfish, then to breakfast, a vast choice, but Mueslie with yoghurt, scrambled egg and toast fills me well. I had thought the YH egg was fine, but Lesley's was 100% better!

Goodbyes at 9am, and immediately into steep ups and downs, on a still dull grey day, through Boscastle and Beeny. I should have kept to this coast road but the gradients were wearing me out so I joined the A39 again to gain a bit of speed with not much traffic anyway.

Along to Bude where I had planned 11'ses, but it looked like a drop down off the main road and a climb back up, so I opted for a Lucozade from the Stratton PO. As I came out, "Is this the lane to Hersham.," "Yes but I hope you've got low gears". He was right and at the top I climbed a gate into a field to devour 2 of Sharons squashed but still gorgeous florentines with the 95p Lucozade drink which I did not particularly like. Soon in to Devon and a freshly gritted surface. I hope my Armadillos are as good as their reputation. Lovely undulating lane, but the dull scenery all a bit 'samey', high hedges and empty fields. Finally up another great hill to Great Torrington, for late lunch at 1pm, filled baked potato, cherry pie and ice cream and a glass of milk, which cost £5.30. and three quarters of an hour. The cafe was the centre for town gossip I guess, who was living with who, all at top decibels, with irish jigs as background, quite entertaining.

By 2 when I emerged he sun was peeping through which brightened the scene no end, but it had gone by 3 when the high hedges seemed to disappear and the great expanse of Exmoor majestically filled my left hand vista.

South Moulton was my goal for the 3rd night, but I was already here at 3,30 on the second day. I celebrated by eating two big local bakery cakes on the seat in the centre of town, washing it down with a bottle of orange, (£2) and watching the world go by, including the secondary kids wandering out of school. I had 52 on the clock I think but the legs were holding out well and felt fit for another hour or more. So it was that by 5pm I began looking for a bed. Two impressive next door country houses had signs, I chose the less impressive one, "I'm very sorry but my father in law has just died so we are very tied up. Try my neighbour". Two barking scotty dogs yapped round my heels as I knocked on the door, and a woman who looked as though she hadn't slept for the last few months said she couldn't take me tonight, but gave no reason. Onward onward and in to Bampton where a man lovingly painting bits of an old Land Rover told me how to avoid the big hill ahead, and gave good info on several good b&bs as I would enter the town from the back. He collected old motor bikes and pedal cycles which I could see in the huge garage behind him so we talked lugless frames and 50's bikes for some time.

His first suggestion was the Exeter Inn, and on asking the price for a single room the barman answerd "Forty pounds". When I said it was a bit steep for me he asked what I was prepared to pay. "I'm a 25 quid Lancashire lad", I told him. "OK", was his quick reply "you can have room 7", and he handed me the key. Small cosy room but with huge en suite and a shower like a pressure washer, which I was soon testing.

After a short snooze and a look at tomorrows route, down for a great steak and kidney pie with veg and the pint of lemonade. Once again 'no network coverage' from 02 has me using the hotel room phone for a lovely long chat with Audrey, weary from decorating at the farm. Hot chocolate brewed in my room while diary writing, and bed at 9.45.

DAY TWO Odo 7590.8. Trip 74.18. Av 10.8

DAY THREE Saturday 24 June.

Very quiet night, breakfast at 8, sun already out strong. Away at 9, singing loudly down the hills:

It's a lovely day today, so whatever you've got to do
You've got a lovely day to do it in, that's true.
So if you've got something that must be done, and it can only be done by one,
Then there's nothing more to say, except to say it's a day for saying, IT'S A LOVELY DAY.

A pleasant undulating B road through Wivelscombe and the Vale of Taunton Deane before the agonising decision, B road over the Quantocks to Bridgewater, or continue on the bigger flatter road to Taunton? Decision made. Change from long sleeved to short sleeve CTC vest in preparation for the climb. It was the right choice indeed as looking over a small bridge after the climb and descent, to Bishops Lydeard, there was the West Summerset Railway, and at 10.40 what better place for morning coffee? Two engines in steam, and a really interesting old chap, writing his cards in real italic copperplate in the coffee shop. His father grew and sold willow withies in the 20's and later, for rail shipment to all over the country.

Forty minutes well spent. But what a climb up to Cothelstone! Eventually when reason gave way to common sense, I got off to walk for the first time. An off roader who came up behind said, 'You've done well mate on those gears.' His feet were twiddling like a well oiled sewing machine as he crawled up past me. On the downhill sweep into Bridgewater, what do I see in the distance? mist? fog? No it's the sea, Burnham on Sea.

Meal outside in the pedestriant walkway, lamb and four veg, a 7 up and a cafe latte, with welcome umberella shade and passing young girls all half dressed! Now I am late, only 29 miles done and it is 1.15. Good job my bed is assured for tonight at Jackie's in Bristol.

On the outskirts of Bridgewater, a flash open sports car pulled up beside me at the lights, and as I glanced round to look at the driver, a piercing wolf whistle came from a crowd of lads in a banger opposite. The very attractive blonde driver never changed her expression. "I think that was for you and not me", I said, and was rewarded with a lovely broad open smile. I was still congratulating myself on winning that smile when I realised that I was a mile past my turn-off lanc, and had to retrace.. Serves me right!

The lanes now were straight and flat, intersected by irrigation channels, quite devoid of traffic, and with small hamlets to add interest. I saw two 'twisters', one just a flurry in a field, but the second one a massive spiral taking clouds of newly cut hay way up into the sky. A steep climb brought me up onto the Polden Hills, a ridge carrying the A39 which had breathtaking views on both sides, if I'd had any breath left to take. Then down off the ridge through more lanes towards Cheddar. Here I crossed the route of my sea to sea ride with Jack last summer. I did not go into the tourist area, but stopped at a garage and Spar shop for a soda and an apple at 3.30. Called both Jackie and Colin and left messages at each phone. Seventeen miles and two hours was my guess to reach Bristol, along the A38, but I was staggered by the hills out of Cheddar and on the main road. I stopped at a farm shop to buy cherries for Fergal and another soda for extra energy.

Using Jackie's map tracing I wound my way in to Bristol and six oclock found me eating a meal with Jackie, Fergal and Colin, an evening of good talk, a bath and bed at 10.

DAY THREE Odo 7664.0. Trip 72.75. Av 11.5. Total miles 225.72, not quite a quarter of the way.

DAY FOUR Sunday 25 June.

Just midday, 24 miles, and I'm having my first drink stop, a pint of lemonade and a coffee, £3.60, at St Briavels, the George Inn. A mistake really, as I should have stopped earlier at 11 as I went through Chepstow, but getting onto the Avon Bridge I met 4 cyclists from Gloucester on a day ride.

After the bridge I followed them over the picturesque old bridge in to Gloucestershire, and up the Wye valley through the forest of Dean.. At the top I think they must have turned to Tinterne for their coffee just ahead of me. I'll have another hour's ride before lunch as I was later starting at 9.30 today. I was very tempted to wait for Audrey in Bristol, but then I would have lost a half day for sure. Took a picture of the St Briavels Castle YH before leaving. I stayed here with Roy and Quarter Pint on a weeks tour when I was 14 in 1950.

Immediately I entered Herefordshire at 12.30 I noticed that the wind was ahead of me, the cloud was gathering, and the road surface was poor, though winding round next to the river, it was a pretty route

Dead on 1.0pm there is the River Inn, full of young canoests, the local rugby club all stripped to the waist, discussing last nights excesses over lunch and a pint, and others outside and inside. A full Sunday roast chicken, 7 veg plus boiled and roast potatoe for £5.0 plus the lemonade of course, £1.60. Away at 2.00pm, well full of food and energy I hope.

In Ross on Wye I take time to find the famous butressed bridge, a grassy ride along the river, to take a photo. When I was a lad I made a model of it using a plaster of paris moulding kit calld 'Castos'. I paid dearly for my detour as in order to get out, I did a huge figure of eight using the motorway A40, and a small road crossing it, both involving big clmbs.

Back on route at Brockhampton, the top of a climb, a short stop for a banana and another florentine from a seat on a high lookout over the river Then stop again, to buy a drink, 2 bananas and a Kitkat, £2.20, at the village shop in Fownhope at 4.30. From then on the day fell apart!

Just before 5 when I was thinking of looking out for a possible b&b stop, I unexpectedly entered Hereford, though I had intended to skirt the town about 6 miles to the East. It was a bit of a dump, tried 2 pubs, all watching the England match, £42 and £45, and then a Little Chef place, £55. The computer reading 62 now and the northerly headwind quite strong, I opt for a straight bash up the A49, 13 miles to the YH at Leominster. Takes a while, and several roundabouts to find my way out, with no problem once on the main road, but at 6.30 the YH is closed when I knock on the door. Beginning to panic, try Talbot Hotel, all rooms full, but then a b&b Copper Hall, with a friendly chap in shorts answering the door, "Yes we do have a single room and it is £27, put your bike in the garage". Five minutes later he serves a coffe pot and biscuits on a tray in the comfortable lounge. Heaven.

Call Audrey after my shower and have a long chat, A hot chocolate in my room, then bed at 10.00, after choosing tomorrow's route. Can I keep up this pace and high standard of enjoyment I wonder? Life is great.

DAY FOUR Odo 7738.2 Trip 74.27. Av 10.7 Tot 300 Wow!

DAY FIVE Monday 26 June.

6.58 am, bedside 'radio two', Elvis, new Government bike initiatives and the Stones, good start to the day. Full Breakfast at 8 and away at 9, having paid £27. Stop at a cash point, as I have only £25 left from my start with £160. Fortyfive minutes ride along a quiet B road in to Sropshire at Richards Castle and then to the ancient Market town of Ludlow. Under the low arched town gate and up the steep High Street with timber frame houses galore, narrow alleys, and a friendly greengrocer with 5 nicely brown bananas for 85p. He gave directons to the small B road out of town. Too soon for a drink at 10, but an old man sitting on the pavement playing a beautifull haunting irish melody on a small flute earned a gold coin from this travellers purse. Money well spent as the tune stayed with me all through the morning, hummed and whistled.

Eleven oclock, a multicoloured field and a style caught my eye, just right for a florentine and two bananas, but I drank in the view as I had no liquid. Later a name jumps out at me from a signpost, Craven Arms 7 miles. I'm not going there but the name rings bells somewhere in my past, possibly the aformentioned tour of the wye valley, or maybe even before that on a ride on the back of Dad's tandem in to Wales and Erdisland.

I know I've heard of Much Wenlock, the next port of call just before 1.00. I enjoy the museum and a Spar soda before selecting a small cafe for mushroom omelette salad and a cafe latte £7.30. Very nice too. I know my average speed is down today, not through tiredness but because the wind is still in my face, and on this first day of Wimbeldon overcast skies too. What a small world it is! When about to leave the cafe another cyclist came and sat down. "Are you local?". "No I'm riding the end to end". Of course we chatted on. He came from close to where I lived as a boy, even knew the road I lived in, went to the same grammar school just two years behind me, and knew all my teachers. He too had had a life of teaching. He was doing the end to end for the ninth time! He set off 2 days before me and is booked in a b&b in Market Drayton tonight. We exchanged Email addresses.

Riding out of the town, my computer reads 33.33 that is 333.33 from Lands End, exactly one third of the distance to Jo G. Over the hill I can see the four cooling towers on the river in Ironbridge where I built and paddled coracles three years ago with my grandchildren, but the next 5 miles round Telford are very fraught as I ask the way a dozen times, with housing estates chopping up my route and big hills and motorways in the way. Eventually 3 miles on the A442, a smattering of rain, and then a lane in to Market Drayton. The information desk is closed, but a phone call to a b&b advertised outside brings the answer 'Yes we always have room for cyclists'. (£25). Four minutes and I'm in my room.

After a shower, a short walk along the canal with way over 100 narrow boats moored. Chat to a couple of owners, then into the pub to find no chef, no meals. Crisps, a big coffee and a blackcurrant cheescake fill the bill (£4) and a pleasant circular walk back in time to read the papers and get a nice call from Audrey. Look at the route, phone Hilda for tomorrow's bed, Margaret for 3ses, and Pat and Ron for the next night.

DAY FIVE Odo 7801.9 Trip 63.69 Av11.1 Total 364.

DAY SIX Tuesday 27 June.

Big breakfast from a massive array of cerial, fruit, yoghurt and full fried choice, but I opt for two poached eggs on 2 toasts. This has been a great place to stop, very friendly, but I forget to take a photo before I leave Maket Drayton at 9.00 Decide to cut off towards Manchester after Whitchurch and Nantwich in order to take in Congleton, to take a photo of my Grandad's old house and maybe look to see if her Axon family removal company are still in their old yard.

Stop at Radway Green Garden Centre 10.30 for a coffee and cake, then through small lanes to pick up the A34, the route when we drive up to Manchester. Join it at Astbury, and a bell rings in my memory. Mum once said ' If you ever want to look into my family history they are all in the graveyard there'. I have never stopped here before, but as it is only 11.30 and I'm not due at Margarets in Wilmslow till 3ses I need to kill some time.

A pretty village Green, so I take a photo, then in though the gate arch and along the side of the church. A party of scholchildren are there, and what looks like the vicar. I explain, "I'm just here looking for relatives". He dashes inside and immediately comes out with a paper with a telephone number. "This chap has just put all our records on computer so you could call him". "Just look around to find the area with dates around the time you are looking for". I thank him and walk off. I thought to look around 1900 but those close to the church are all early 1800. For no reason I turn left and walk on and the very first stone I look at jumps out at me, Slater' my mum's maiden name. I read on not recognising the several names, but at the bottom I am astounded to read, 'Also Margaret Axon aged 9 years', This is the grave of Mum's elder sister, her uncle and her Mother, erected by her grandparents. I was dumbfounded. Out of hundreds of stones, this was the first stone I had noticed. I am absolutely certain that Mum was there with me. Chance was impossible.

Still in a daze, I rode on. Took a pic of my grandad's old house but Axon enquiries in Congleton drew a blank and the phone number I found in the chemist shop directory seemed to be a fax number. Bought a savory pastie, cake and fruit juice from the local baker and ate it on a nearby seat.

Got to Wilmslow early at 2.30, and spent 2 hours with Julie's sister in law and niece, then on to Hilda's in Stockport after navigating with hazy memory. Great late night there with a gathering of cycling old timers. Tomorrow was to be a real trip down memory lane.

DAY SIX Odo 7863.4 Trip 61.43 Av 12.7 Total 425

DAY SEVEN Wednesday 28 June.

Breakfast with Hilda, cloudy but brighter. Leave 9.15 after a great evening and breakfast, but again forget the picture.

1.00pm. I know it is always supposed to rain in Manchester, and here I am sitting in Picadilly outside a huge food place eating a burrito, and it is raining. I can look across and see the corner where I bought our engagement ring, and am remembering the night I was propositioned by a prostitute when I was about 17. The bus station where I used to catch the number 57 is a green grass park with trees and a big fountain. This morning has been one of unashamed nostalgia.

From Hilda's, through Houldsworth Square with the clock showing the correct time, down past Reddish Lane past the shop where Dad bought me my first bike after the war, a Wardle, black with roller brakes. Down as far as 'Stan' my barber, then back to the Rota cinema, completely gone, up Norfolk Ave to 47, the Kirkbrights, mums best friends who used to live in Repton Avenue which was my next stop. No sign of the four shops, grocer, butcher, greengrocer, and newsagent where I delivered papers, but I can see where the houses on each corner have been extended. Up Granada Road, turn into 'my' avenue. I remember each surname as I slowly pass each number. All the gardens, fronts, porches etc are changed but the layout and the feeling is the same. At 19, look across to Roy's, and next door at Audrey's, now looking empty. I can see a chap in 17 so I knock on the door. Really nice fellow, little kiddy looking out from the window and I chat some time. As I guessed, number 15, looking very uncared for, is still owned by "an old chap who keeps himself to himself and only comes here occasionally" Ian McEwan I'm sure, "walks very fast and with a stoop". "The pond and field are still behind that garden, I wouldn't mind buying it when he comes to sell".

Out of there to see West End Primary School, the old buildings plus others, and on through Thornley Park, I clearly remember the last tram running, then past where the bomb dropped on the golf course, which is still there, Up Hyde Rd and branch off along the railway line track to Audenshaw Grammer with a football match on the old Rugby fiends.

On to Crown Point, a few market stalls, and the shop where I bought my plaster casting kit still there, as is the door and stairs up to the room where I took ballroom dancing lessons aged 15. Ride along to Haughton Green to have 11ses with Les and Shirley, old Victoria Wheelers. An hour's chat, then on down towards Manchester, past Dad's works yard by the railway line. Days of lovely memories here, climbing into the loft, the old horse cart by the wall, the smell of the lorries and potatoe sacks, and the office with a typwriter, elastic bands and scats covered with old sacking. It is now a small wooded area, the big wall has fallen down and a path leads through it, still a green area behind in the valley. Down Tan Yard Brow and up to Auntie Nellies house 42 Woodhouse St, where the bowling green is as flat and green as it ever was. Back on to Hyde Road and down past Cowans, bike shop supreme in days gone by, now a very run down arca. Past Belle Vue, still a Dog Racing stadium, Ardwick green, a bus station still and where Dads old school used to be, an empty plot. The Odeon Cinema, building still there, the scene of my first date with Julie, a Dean Martin Jerry Lewis film. Look right where used to be a flourescent signboard 'Mosleys waterproofs', and up in to Picadilly. Sit outside a posh new food outlet where the really expensive Hotel used to be.

To my left now, are they busses, trains or trams? The Metro. Ahead past the fountain is the big corner building that was Lewis's and where my Hornby Dublo train set was bought. Over lunch I watch teenagers, mostly of cast indian descent, cavorting and laughing in the fountain now the rain has stopped, and hoards of office types passing with suits and briefcases. How lucky am I?

On down Market street avoiding the Metro lines and edging round towards Cheetham I recognise the huge wide and long railway bridge at the bottom of Bury old Road, with the Strangeways Prison Tower to my left. I am on course through familiar yet strange surroundings.

Heaton Park to my right now, almost at Julie's old home. I swing off the road to the right, up the still unmade surface and round to Aunt Jess and uncle Les's yard gate, scene of many a Goodnight Kiss. A gate is still there.

Past the Church where we were married next, and a 10 minute stop at John and Shirley's nearby, then on through Bury to Ramsbottom and Pat and Ron's new bungalow. Garden to examine, new greenhouse, pick and eat a few blackcurrants and a continuation of reminiscing through the evening, with a long call from Audrey.

DAY SEVEN Odo 7894 Trip 30.99 Av 10.2 Total 456

DAY EIGHT Thursday 29 June.

Breakfast with the Pickfords, as always a real treat. Pack all freshly washed and ironed clothes, the photo shot with Ron joining me to set off at 9.10.

After only half a mile we part, he to daughter Wendy's and I up a one mile slog with Peel Tower high on my left. Haslingden, Acrington and Oswaldtwistle towards Clitheroe, I know I am in Lancashire for sure, but until Walley, the ride is built up and towney.

A stop at Walley Abbey where the cafe seems barely open at 10.10, so in to the town to buy a filled roll and a soda £4.50, though it is too soon to eat it. The route from here looks rather empty and brown on the map, so I want to be prepared. Up and up, and I stray off the route somewhere to do a 3 mile detour via Dunsop Bridge, where a chap in a PO van assures me that I took the best scenic route, and he should know, as he is runs sec for the CTC North Lancs section

It seems a long morning and for the first time my legs are aching and I feel tired, possibley the late nights, or the slower, shorter rides in the last two days. On reaching Slaidburn at 12.10, there is right outside the YH, a pub serving meals. A scat outside with a very welcome sunshade and a cooling breeze which has helped to push me along. Steak and Kidney Pic, Lemonade, (£9.50) and at 32 miles I'm well on target for Sedborough tonight.

Wow, from then on what a slog up over Tatum Fells to High Bentham. I was overtaken by a young girl on a stripped out superbike who greeted me and streaked up ahead dancing on the pedals, out of sight well before the next sharp risc. Bought a drink and some bananas (£2.30) there and made a brief eat stop at 3.00 sitting on a wall admiring the superb scenery. I've passed through the Lancashire Dales, the Trough of Bowland and into the Yorkshire dales. Another stop at 4.00 for a locally made ice cream cone, by a very high bridge over the River Lune at Kikby Lonsdale, a local beauty spot for tourists of all types including a mass of motorbikes. Some youths were jumping off the bridge, which I reckon was twice as high as my mast which is 55 ft above the water. Families were swimming off a nearby beach where 7 canoests were having a rest stop.

A great holiday atmosphere on a glorious day. Just wish I was riding a bit easier. Tried phoning ahead to a CTC b&b but no reply. Arrived Sedbrough dead on 5.00 and on enquiring at the local Pie Shop was informed, 'They've not done b&b at Turvey House for 8 years at least'. So much for the CTC list, but I found another, (£22) Yew Tree Cottage in five minutes, a shower and a room brewed jug of coffee, the last of Sharon's florentines, and a snooze..

Wake 7.30, and out for a stroll round the lovely village, phone calls home on a stile surrounded by cows, and back for diary, route search and bed at 9.00pm.

DAY EIGHT Odo 7957 Trip 62.66. Av 11.0 suprising! Total 519.

DAY NINE Friday 30^th June.

Woken early, 6.45, by builders next door, but snoozed on as the earliest breakfast on offer was 8.30. Joined by Mike and Flo' walking with a stick, at 9.00, and off at 9.20 after passing the bike and climbing over the fence as the gate was blocked by the massive concrete pumping lorry.

Found the small back lane at Fir bank with no trouble, and toiled up with Brant Fell on my left, but unfortunately I somehow branched left to Blackfoot and crossed the motorway and A road much too early. I was rewarded for my mistake by a steep climb on B6257 to join the A685 with my intended track way below me across the Lune River and valley. Back on course in Tebay, buy a local pork pie, apples and a huge currant slice, and a drink, (£4.40). At 11.00 stop for 45 minutes, with a terrific view, though Shap Fell is out of sight behind me, to eat, drink and be merry, though only 16 miles on the clock.

12.40. Culgaith Garden Centre and Station Cafe looks full and tempting. I have cracked on a bit since the last stop, with a following wind and undulating road using top ring and top gear at 20-25mph on the flat. The place is full of locals, mums and kids, and a few walkers, nice atmosphere with lots of old railway memorabelia on the walls. My legs are tired, but so far better than yesterday. 'Our food is cooked to order and may take some time'... It did!. But when it came, what a salad. Half a dinner plate full of thick cut home baked local ham, and the other half piled high with every salad selection imaginable. Even I had a hard job to put it all away, and only £6 including a large glass of real orange juice. I know why this place is full.

On cross country, to A66 which I joined at a road block, with a big flyover being built. I pushed my way through the bulldozers, and got stopped by a jolly roadman. Told him my destination, "Would you like to join me ?"". "That 'a wouldna", he answered with a wave on. Soon B6412, a winding route, not well signposted through Lazonby and Croglin and in to Brampton. Stop at information and get 2 b&b tel numbers in Langholm 17 miles away. Only 4.15 so I should make it by 5.30 and my legs are well up to the task. Buy a carton of orange juice and 4 chunky Kitcats, only £2.

As I forked right onto yet another hardly signed small lane, the skies were almost black ahead, and shortly the heavens opened. At 5.10 with 68 on the clock, 'Scotland Welcomed' me albeit with rain. I reached Langholm just before 6.00, but the computer had succumbed to the rain and only showed 69 miles, a shortfall of 7 miles I reckon.

A good b&b (£25) as I enter the town, all watching Germany in the world cup. I brew a bedroom mug of coffee and eat my Lake district pie and currant slice, here in Scotland. Shower, call Audrey and bed early, still drizzle outside. 8.30pm

DAY NINE Odo 8026.8 Trip 69.75 Av 11.2 Tot 589 Corrected +7 Trip 77 Tot 596.

DAY TEN Saturday 1st July.

lemonade £9.50 Paid for with two scottish fivers. 1.10pm 36 miles. Lunch at The Gordon Arms Hotel, Mountbenger, B709, turkey & ham pie with gravvy and veg, plus

I got off at 9 this morning, after a photo of the couple outside the house, but stopped on the bridge out of Langholm to lubricate my chain which was actually rusting.

After a grueling 16 miles, find the Tibetan Buddhist Temple I had been warned not to pass, so even at 10.30, I do as I'm told.

Very interesting, ornate, quite unbelievable in this remote place, obviously spreading peace and goodwill around the world, but far too complex for my simple mind. I tie Sharon's florentine ribbon on the prayer or wish tree, making the same wish and prayer as always, Maybe Buddha can get things moving. Buy a small vegie Samosa and a lovely cafe latte. (£2.50) and chat to a couple from near Manchester who recognised my LH Brookes and talked cycling, old bikes, and dicey knees, All this took an enjoyable hour out of my riding day, 11.30 am and only 16 miles done.

What a great road, plenty of climbing, but so quiet, marvellous majestic scenery and hardly see a car all morning. On one climb I spot a yellow jersey ahead, and at the top, he is fortunately waiting because he is able to take my photo at the 'Scottish Borders' sign.

Not sure how I could have entered twice though. He is part of a sponsored group, ridden from Carlisle today, with a van following. Soon joined by another chap and two young ladies, all flash bikes and no gear. I actually want to ride alone, feeling no need of company, so I ride on as they catch their breath. They haven't caught me by lunch anyway. Find another 'out for a spin' cyclist looking at my bike outside, another ten minutes chat. He was about to turn back to watch the match, so I advised him to throw the tele away and go and admire the nearby mountain. At the next place I bought two drinks. (£2) drank one carried one, then at Pechies another stop, local ice cream cone, (E2) look at a great display of Scottish Wood Craftsmen in the library, really impressive, and then got SYHA brochures at the info office, phoned ahead and booked a bod in Edinburgh. Only 4.15pm and I'm booked in already with about 20 miles to go.

Riding into Peebles I had my first close shave with an Audi passing at about 60, so close that I wobbled in the air shock as he passed. I am sure a less experienced rider would have fallen, and I was as close to the kerb as was sensible.

Nothing much to see on the A703 run in to Edinburgh, after the marvellous mountain and valley sights of the morning, so with a strong following wind, I was checking in at 5.30. Eglinton SYHA, (£13.50), second floor, room 22, three bunk beds and a wash basin. The stairs are hard on the thighs. Have a shower, then housework, wash pants and wet socks and make up the remaining bottom bunk. Soon downstairs to check out kitchens and common rooms, more crowds watching football, but find a quiet room to write this diary.

An evening walk in to the centre, 20 mins walk each way, in my sandals, finding a sharp pain in my right foot which I have not noticed previously. Call Audrey and several other family answering machines from the park by a golden statue fountain, with the Castle way above me still in the sunlight. Brief call in to Macdonalds for a coffee and blueberry bun (only charged £1 as the cafe latte machine would not work). Not a picasant place, but the only other possibilities were pubs full of beer swilling chanting football fanatics.

DAY TEN Odo 8100.8 Trip 74.04 Av 12.6 Total 662 Corrected Total +7 669

DAY ELEVEN Sunday 2 July.

Wow, what a frustrating day. It is 3.20 pm and this is the first real stop, Blairgowery for a coffee and sticky toffee pudding.

and I deserve it too !.

Last night I slept well, did not even hear my two room sharers come in. Soon packed and down to breakfast at 7.45. It was great value, £2.50 for continental with as much cerial, juice, coffee and toast as I could eat. Lots to look at too in a busy canteen kitchen. Also found a 13 amp plug to charge my camera for almost an hour.

Away at 9.10 with the roads wet. I had been told twice that Sustrans Route 1 took you straight to the Forth Bridge. In fact following the arrows it took a very devious route, back IN to the middle of the city where I walked last night! Ask a taxi driver, A90 straight out, and 9.30 finds me again passing Eglinton Crescent Youth Hostel having wasted 20 minutes and three miles.

No problem after that until the A90 to the Forth Bridge has a huge notice, "Cyclists and pedestrians prohibited, take the side turnoff', which I did, and found myself going back along the A90. Fortunately, just then two fast cyclists passed me, telling me. Ignore the sign, It's been put there because the road is very busy sometimes'. I crossed the central barrier and continued on eventually over the Bridge, no problem not even much traffic. But I did have another problem. when I stopped half way over the bridge to take a picture, and my camera would not open or do anything. I had checked it in the canteen and the battery was topped up, but now just nothing. Good job there was nothing else worth photographing all that day.

In to Fife, through Cowdenbeath, which even I relate to football, then Loch Leven on the right and M90 on the left, rather urban scenery, but with a jet black sky ahead and occasional forked lightening

At Bridge of Earn I bought 4 bananas, a chicken roll and a box of orange juice £3.60, but when I came out of the shop, big raindrops wore falling so I stayed in the doorway waiting for a break. No sooner had I got going again than it really belted down and with thunder too, so I found a bus shelter just big enough for me and my bike, and spent 20 minutes eating lunch, watching the road turn into a river.

In and quickly out of Porth A93 without a stop. For some reason my marked route took a massive westward detour through Auchterarder, which I decided to ignore, and I rejoined it at Blairgowrie to stop and enjoy the pudding and coffee, out of the rain.

A steady climb now, still rain or drizzle, but not much traffic on A93, with the mountains again showing through the low grey and black cloud. Bracmar sounds a bit far, but Glenshee within easy reach I reckon.

And so it was that I checked in to a ski lodge at Spittal, Glen Shee at 5.45pm, though she gave me 'a double en suite room for £30 at the six clock price’. Bike stored, washing done and hanging to dry, showered and feeling great. Long chat to Audrey, Tina and Jack. Steve's anafone again.

Drew out £200 today and have just £2.60 left of the last lot of cash.

DAY ELEVEN Odo 8181. Trip 80.38 Av 11.4 Corrected Tot. 750.

DAY TWELVE Monday 3 July.

5.30pm. I'm in the Ardenbach Outdoor Pursuits Bunkhouse in Grantown On Spey (£13). Phoned Rebecca who isn't in, but I have found the empty room and will go out soon for a meal. It has been a very hard day. I remember it being said on the last time I toured Scotland in 1950, that Scottish miles are longer than the English ones, and they still are.

Only woke at 8 this morning, the biggest breakfast spread yet, and away at 9.20. Straight up, 5.5 miles on the little ring takes 50 minutes, down then to Bracmar. 16 miles. Have a Shetlands ice cream, coach unloading Sagas, lots of souvenier shops, a short stop of only about 20 minutes.

Then on almost level roads to Balmoral. find the PO shop, buy a steak pie, a big apple pie, box of orange juice and a lemonade £5.20, and then have a coffee and lemon cake £2.50. Not a cheap place, but the only one before Tomintoul which is up on the brown bit and seems to be etched in the minds of all who have ridden there,

I know why now..... I had to walk twice. A 20% pitch is the slope of the cedar wood shingle tiled garage roof I once built, and remember standing on the roof, but not with my biike! There were two quite long hills of that gradient, and several 10 and 12%. I stopped twice to cat, once shrouded in mist and the other just below the cloud with a view. I must have put my windproof on and off at least half a dozen times as it was freezing on the drops and sweating on the climbs. Passed two Ski complexes shrouded in mist.

That's it, day gone, grey low cloud and mist but no rain and no sun. Lowest average speed so far. Just could not get into a rythm, and on top of that, find that I have dropped my CTC cap during the day, taing my jacket on and off.

I'm off to find a meal, then shower and early bed.

Well, that was the plan but fate intervened and I again met John, (Audenshaw Grammar school End to Ender), in the restaurant! We had an enjoyable meal together £13, including 2 pints of lemonade, and of course had lots of experiences to exchange. Got back at 8.30 to phone Audrey late and also brief chat to Steve. Bed 9.30.

DAY TWELVE Odo 8243.9 Trip 62.51 Av 10.1 Cor Tot 813

DAY THIRTEEN Tuesday 4 July US Independence Day.

Left my bunk 7am after a great quiet night, had breakfast with a free coffee at Annies Bakery on the main road, 7.15 and away on A939 by 7.30. Gradual ups and downs, but enjoying myself so much missed a turn after Dava, which took me a good 15 minutes out of my way and extra hills too. Back on course, lovely winding narrow lanes, and a brief view of the sea in Moray Firth. Gave the Battle of Culloden a miss, but had another backtrack by blindly following the Sustrans route 1 again which took me in a complete circle through Culloden village. From now on I ignore all Sustrans signs. Cool day, no sun, low cloud.

11.00am. Second Breakfast, £3.60 at Tescos Inverness, with 38 on the clock.

2.15pm As I sit at the Nigg Ferry, outside a Cromarty Pub, memories of past 6am shipping forecasts. "Cromarty Forth Minches, NE Force 8 gales". Just missed the 2 oclock ferry so ordered a coffee and sticky toffee pudding, (£5.50) and after 15 minutes it still has not arrived, but I ate quickly and did catch the 2.30 ferry! Stopped to have a banana and bottle drink overlooking Munlock Bay and then the wind was in my teeth from there, a straight NE road, hilly too, along the Black Isle.

Sutherland Arms Hotel, Golspie, 6 pm. In the bar, sipping a large sweet sherry and sweet and sour chicken ordered. Had a long hot shower in my en suite sumptuous circular cubicle, and washed smalls and CTC short sleeved vest. My double room has cost £39, but at 5.15pm it was the third place I'd tried and I was on my way out of town, up a hill and with 89 miles on the clock. Tomorrow I'm on my last map, with about 76 still to go..

DAY THIRTEEN Odo 8333.3 Trip 89.27. Av 11.6. Cor Tot 902.

DAY FOURTEEN Wednesday 3 July

Considering the high price, it was the least breakfast choice so far, but still did not leave hungry at 8.45. Straight in to thick mist, so could not so more than a couple of hundred yards at most for the next 2 hours.

Stopped at 11, hopefull by a house the so called Hilltop, and had a Mars bar and bananas but I'd seen nothing further away than 200 yards so far. Hoped to stop in Dunbeath, but it looked like a big drop off the A9 and a climb back. At 11.25 stopped at Iver Tea Stop, ordered coffee and a cake. "The chefs not in and I dont know what she has", Fifteen minutes later when I'd read the local paper I enquired as to my coffee. “I sent the lad out for some milk". At 11.45 I said that I had to go and excused myself! The A9, main road it is, hospitable it is not

Eventually found a very nice butchers shop just off the road at Latheronwheel who sold me bananas, danish pastries, orange juice to drink and one to take with me ($4.50) Onward through the mist, sometimes finding five minutes sun if the road strayed inland, or got high enough, but no scene apart from the 200 yards ahead, until Wick. There, between 2 and 2.30 I managed to book my train back south for Friday, my b&b for Thursday night, and eat a fried fish from the chip shop. The very helpful station booking clock could not fit my bike on any train out of Inverness for tomorrow, so I will have a day to kill.

Only 17 miles to go and I should have been excited, but the continued mist and straight uninteresting road made it a disappointing trip, brightened only by the profusion of wild flowers along the roadside.

JOHN O GROATS Took a pic by the sign, then in the village signed the End to End Book in 'The First and Last House' at 10 minutes to four, looked at the interesting Museum, and had a kitkat. The sun was shining, visibility was much better, but the wind was strong and bitterly cold.

Took photos of the sea, and then looked for b&b. First two full, but third time lucky, £25 and I am his very first guest. He is very friendly and I feel honoured to be first to sign into his book. Soon in the brand new shower and installed in the new bedroom. 6.00pm down on the bike to Sea View Hotel for a celebratory meal. It feels really wobbly without any baggage.

Feel lonely for the first time while having a meal. Riding alone has been great, but celebrating needs two, and somehow the end is a bit of a letdown. I feel a bit of a cheat in that it has not been as arduous as I had imagined, and even the physically difficult bits have been enjoyable. I wish I was back home right now, but part of me is sad that it is over. Talk with Audrey and she gives a whoop and a cheer that I am at the end and in such good time.

DAY FOURTEEN Odo 8402.7 Trip 69.50 Av12.3. Cor Tot 972.

Thursday 6 July

It is over. Sleep 8.30 to 8.am and still found it hard to get up. Seem to ache for the first time, and no enthusiasm, but a friendly chat with Gordon the owner puts me in better spirits and gives me good ideas on how to fill the day.

Away at 10am and ride 2 miles to Duncansby Head, then a walk to see The Stacks a bit closer. A slight mist, but quite sunny and warm. Straight past JOG and along to Dunnet head with a stop for late 11ses at a small teashop and Heritage Centre. Chat all the time to the proprietor and a local friend about horses, Spanish villas and boats. Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of mainland UK was quite spectacular with a lighthouse and lookout point from which I could see for miles around, all the Offshore islands and inland too. Well worth the visit. Back down to Castlehill to buy snackfood at a Spar, chicken leg, steak pie. 2 cakes, a drinking yoghurt and a fruit juice. No sense in going hungry. Stop in a field on the B road back to Wick with bright hot sunshine and time to be in a barleyfield, rest and enjoy just being alive. Take a long route down a very minor road, no traffic at all and even a brand new smooth tarmac surface. Check in to my Wick b&b room at 5.30, then out on the bike for a tour of the town harbour and river path. Chat to a chap on a 45ft mono sailboat living aboard, from Gosport who has been to Holland and all the Norwegian coast, and is about to cruise the Scottish islands before going back to the South coast in October. Sooner him than me in these waters, and it costs him £9 to £25 a night in harbours everywhere, and he has only anchored once since April! I anchor ALL the time for free.

Buy some fruit for tomorrow's journey, and back in the room, John arrives, guessed he might book in here. Shower and out for a meal at the Bord del Eaux. Most expensive meal yet with sherry and wine at £18, but we are both celebrating aren't we? Both got to be out at 5.45am tomorrow for the 6.23 train and it is going to be jam packed with youths going to a rock festival in Perth

I've got £21 left after paying my £20 for tonight, (reduced no breakfast), The train out cost £45 and the train back £68, and at twice the price! I've drawn out cash, 160, 200, 200, Total Cost £670 for the whole trip. Two weeks of unadulterated fun and excitement, cheap

Extern Fill In Day Odo 8452.8 Trip 49.37 Av 9.7 Cor Tot 1022

FANTASTIC. Think I'll do it every year from now on!