CRUISINNG CHARACTERS.

Panattoni.

It was in Porlamar Margarita Island, Venezuela , 7 January 2005, that we met the two Italian cruisers in a huge mega yacht catamaran, ‘Atlantide’

Anchored close to Sid and Julie on Classicat, we had been with them for an evening meal, and around 8.30, we left them in our small dinghy, Micro, ready to retire to bed after a good day. On reaching Maxolar, Audrey climbed aboard, and I was about to follow, when I was aware of someone calling from a boat anchored some way off in the bay. The guy was frantically waving in my direction and shouting loudly, obviously in some trouble I thought. Telling Audrey that I would follow into bed very soon, I motored over to a large , about 50 ft Motor Catamaran, with a guy on the transom.

He explained that they were Italian, and had guests aboard, and as it was Christmas time, they were very anxious to celebrate with some fellow cruisers. I of course explained very clearly that we had just eaten, and were about to go to bed, in fact my wife was by now almost in bed as he had seen me drop her on board.

He however would accept no excuses, and actually held my dinghy painter very securely, refusing to release it until I promised to return with my wife. Really without being completely rude, I had no alternative but to agree. Audrey was almost as reluctant as I was, being already half undressed, but I explained that he seemed very friendly, and she did agree to accompany me.

And so it was that we clamboured aboard Atlantide, a mega cruiser, and were introduced to his crew, a friend, and two lady friends who were temporary guests, all well dressed and obviously well heeled, an unusual cruising crowd indeed. He was the only one who spoke English, though the other three seemed to understand when we spoke slowly with normal gesticulations of course. .

Throughout our visit, before and during the meal, the owner talked almost without stopping, with quite a tale to tell, explaining his ownership of the boat, and the fact that it was really his first experience of cruising on it. He was a very well-to-do industrial business man, owning his own company, and he had bought the boat two years ago, but then his business had a bad year and he had only made 3 million instead of the usual 5 million per annum. This necessitated him not being able to take time out to use his new toy. This came across as quite normal, and we were not in any way doubting his authenticity.

One memorable part, was that his crew member friend seemed to know only one word. And it was a word that the owner used very frequently ‘also‘, to join two sentences.. Every time he used that word, his crewman friend, sometimes in the galley and sometimes sitting with us all, repeated it loudly., “al-zo”.

We were fed royally, finger starters, then a main course, and of course the obligatory panattone, all with various drinks of course. I do not remember what time we eventually got into our bed, but it was well after 11.00..

The main part of their tale however was quite scary. We were anchored in the main bay on the south of Isla Margarita, with Porlamar as the dock and town. It was renowned as a place where dinghies were stolen as a matter of course, with touts onshore vying for custom to “guard your dinghy”, for a fee of course. Not only ashore either, but during the night, dinghies were cut from their lines if left tied to the yacht stern. It was so bad a problem, that there was a Cruisers VHF Radio group, who volunteered to take night watches in the harbour, shining a strong torchlight beam all around the anchored boats to deter the very accomplished and organised thieves. I volunteered, and even had to buy a special high powered beam lantern, to plug into our 12v system, and mount onto the winch top. I did not deter any thieves that I know of, but I did have my duty shifts during our several visits to Porlamar.

Atlantide had sailed in from the north, as we had done a few days previously, from Blanquilla , and been anchored in a secluded bay for the night, on the west coast. The captain had been wakened in the night with a knife being held to his throat. There were several boarders and he, his friend, and the two girls were totally scared for their lives. The boarders searched everywhere, for valuables, including jewellery from the girls, but did not have to look far for the captains wallet, with several thousand dollars in it, right on top of the navigation desk. Eventually they left, taking his 20 ft dingy powered with two 60hp outboards. The two girls were completely terrified, and insisted on leaving the boat at the first opportunity. Over the radio, they had booked flights back to Italy, and were flying out at 11.00 am the following day.

And so it was that at 8.00 am the following day, 8 January 2005, he borrowed my minuscule 8 ft dinghy ‘Micro’ with a 2 hp outboard to ferry their ladies to the taxi waiting on the shore. What a come-down, but at least they had all lived to tell the tale. And so too that David and Audrey only have to say “Al-zo” to bring back the great memory of Panettone, fun and also dangerous times aboard Maxolar.